The pretty little UK market town that's so popular with tourists locals are 'sick of them'

Cobbled streets curve past colourful shopfronts, stone cottages cling to steep hillsides, and the River Calder glints beneath arched canal bridges. Hebden Bridge, nestled in the heart of the Calder Valley between Halifax and Todmorden, looks like a town plucked straight from a postcard. Once a quiet mill town, it has reinvented itself as one of the north of England's most desirable places to live, regularly topping lists of picturesque, community-minded towns.

But speak to the people who live and work here, and another picture emerges: one of affection tinged with fatigue. For all its beauty, Hebden Bridge's popularity brings problems. Locals say there are too many tourists, not enough parking, and a creeping sense that the balance between residents and visitors is shifting. Even on an ordinary Thursday afternoon, long after the summer crowds have gone, parking is scarce. Drivers circle the town centre and its narrow lanes, peering down side streets in hope of a space. As one resident joked: "You can spend longer finding somewhere to park than enjoying your coffee."

Ben Oliver, 39, who moved from Sunderland in March 2020, agreed. "It's a beautiful place with a strong community, and you can see the moors from here," he said. "But town parking can get difficult, and because of the tourists it attracts, prices go up.

"Weekends are the worst. Sometimes you just give up trying to park and walk in from the edge of town. It's great that people visit because it brings life and money in, but it also means locals get squeezed a bit. You notice it most when you're trying to rent or buy. Prices shoot up because everyone wants a piece of it. In summer the streets are packed, and you end up avoiding the centre altogether until things quieten down."

Despite the challenges, it's easy to see why so many people fall for the place. Independent boutiques spill out onto Market Street, artisan bakeries scent the air with cinnamon, and the wooded hills surrounding the town glow gold in autumn.

Hebden Bridge has a history of resilience and reinvention, from its 19th-century textile heritage to its later reputation as a haven for artists, musicians and environmental activists.

Retail assistant Jess Wild, who moved here two years ago, said it's that creative, community spirit that drew her in: "It's an aesthetically beautiful place, and the shops have a strong sense of community.

"Everyone knows each other, and there's real warmth here. But there's not too much diversity in the type of shops, as there are too many eating places catering to tourists.

"Still, it's a lovely place to live."

That balance between charm and commercialisation is something many locals mention. The surge in cafes and restaurants has kept the town vibrant, but some feel it comes at a cost.

"You used to see more quirky little stores," Jess added. "Now it's coffee shops and brunch spots. It's what visitors want, but it changes the feel of the place."

"You can't blame people for wanting to come, but it changes the atmosphere. When you've got crowds lining the canal and queues outside every café, it stops feeling like a small town and more like a weekend attraction. It's lovely, but it can be a bit much."

For Paul Anyon, 57, who runs Paul's Fresh Fish from his market truck every Thursday, change has been constant: "I've been coming here for 24 years, took over from my father who did the same before me," he said, neatly wrapping up a slab of haddock for a customer.

"It's a busy stall in a quiet town, at least it used to be. Over the years, I've noticed a lot of southerners moving in. Prices have gone up, but people are paying more to buy from local businesses, and that's great to see."

Standing nearby, regular customer John Smith, 65, waits patiently with his glass Tupperware box in hand. "Paul always tells me what's good this week," he said.

"You just couldn't get fish like this from a supermarket."

His comment sums up what makes Hebden Bridge special: a local economy that still thrives on personal connection and trust. Not everyone here is a resident.

Many, like Michelle and Tim Holroyd, drive in from nearby towns to enjoy what Hebden Bridge offers. "We come about once a month from Halifax," said Michelle.

"We always go to the Old Gate pub, the food's fantastic. There are great charity shops and antique shops too."

Her husband Tim added: "We're both ex-Scouts, so we love walking in the countryside around here. When there are big events on, we take the train instead of driving, it's easier."

It's that surrounding landscape that gives Hebden Bridge its magic.

The moors rise steeply from the valley, covered in heather and crisscrossed by stone paths. It's no wonder that writer Ted Hughes, who was born nearby, found so much inspiration in these hills.

The town is also known for its alternative spirit, a strong LGBTQ+ community, thriving arts scene, and a reputation as one of the UK's most progressive small towns.

For David Moody, 72, it's this mix of natural beauty and neighbourly connection that makes Hebden Bridge unbeatable, even if it sometimes feels too popular for its own good: "It's a walker's paradise," he said, resting against a table as he chatted with passers-by about kindness and community.

"The countryside's beautiful, but there are too many tourists, especially in summer. It gets too busy, and parking is hard to find anywhere.

"Still, I love it here. I'd only ever move south if I won the lottery, and that'd just be for the weather."

And despite the frustrations, that seems to be the prevailing sentiment, a kind of affectionate exasperation.

Hebden Bridge may have its flaws, but its community spirit, beauty, and sense of belonging keep people rooted here. Even on a brisk afternoon, the market hums with chatter, cafes buzz with conversation, and the canal towpath is dotted with walkers and cyclists.

At Little H Cafe, where sunlight streamed through the windows on a surprisingly bright October day, barista Ellie Sim smiled as she handed over a toasted panini: "People always think the north is dreary, but it's been gorgeous all day. Everyone's in a good mood when the sun comes out."

Hebden Bridge is a testament to small-town Britain, where natural beauty meets an independent spirit. Even the complaints about parking, tourists, or too many cafes are proof that people care deeply about the place they call home.